It’s camping season, BBQ season, time to play with open fire cooking. Combine that with onions and chicken, what could go wrong?

The directions are confusing and heavily footnoted, but with a little patience and a sharp spoon, it’s a really nifty “dinner for two” type of dish for a nice camping event

First, find the largest onions you can. I’m assuming this means root-cellar onions; something exceptionally large. The best I could do was some Spanish onions, but a Vidalia-type would take more filling.

Trim, peel, core and hollow the onions,

four soft-ball sized onions, which have been emptied like pumpkins or apples for stuffing.

I used a sharpened teaspoon to hollow them.

 

line with salt pork, fill with seasoned poultry,

the hollow onions with a fringe of prosciutto ready to be folded over the chicken, which has been densely stuffed inside.

Not quite a baked apple!

and roast in ashes, under coals, well wrapped in what the instructions call burlap. Be aware that modern burlap is not only not food-safe, it’s also not as closely woven as would be required, and consider several layers of cheesecloth, or perhaps using 100% linen scraps from making clothing, if you happen to have any.

 

I tried it two ways;

First I stuffed four onions, wrapped two in fabric, and put them in the oven. The ones in cloth took far longer to cook, and none of the onions managed to cook to the pointof collapse; there was not enough moisture barrier with the lack of the ash layer.

 

the stuffed onion cut in half showing the cooked poultry but not-well-enough cooked onion, on a plate.

it needed more time and more of a moisture barrier

For the second iteration I put a layer of half-onions in a pot, then a layer of prosciutto, the seasoned chicken, another layer of prosciutto, and another layer of onions. It had none of the character or tone of the chicken cooked inside the onion, it was actually kind of depressing.

If you wish to do group service, simply wrapping pieces of seasoned poultry and dressing it heavily with onions will get you just as close, but will also be just as distant. There are better recipes for group service.

a layer of halved onions tops a visible layer of prosciutto, which completely covers a thick layer of poultry, in a dutch oven.

While it’s a pleasant dish, it loses all of the character of the original. Don’t bother.

There is a plan in the works to make a go of it with charcoal and ash, as well as to wrap the onions in foil, but those are slightly down the road.

Edit! It’s 2013, and foil has been accomplished. It’s the way to go. In a slow oven of about 200* for 3 hours, then the heat boosted to 350 for an hour, the onions were soft and buttery without dissolving.

These can be pre-assembled, wrapped, and frozen with minimal loss of integrity.

A friend stuffed her onions with lamb, which was a similar delight. She pre-cooked the meat as meatballs, and prepared them for camping. It’s still, a year later, one of my favorites.

 

Partridge and pheasant are unavailable to me at this time of year.

Recipe: bird turnovers

Summary: onion stuffed with poultry

Ingredients

  • 1-2 chicken leg quarters (depending on size of chickens and size of onions)
  • 1/4 lb  prosciutto or thinly lined fatback, depending on taste and availability (or line with salted chicken skin, but have a barrier there)
  • ¼ tsp cloves,
  • ½ tsp cinnamon,
  • ¼ tsp sugar (reconsider if using a sweet onion)
  • 4 onions the size of a softball
  • (I did not use salt, as the prosciutto has enough for my tastes, yours may vary)

Instructions

  1. Cut the tops off of the onions, peel them, and hollow them out with a teaspoon as though they are tiny pumpkins. Save the onion trim for another dish.
  2. Bone the chicken leg, trim off all of the tendons you can deal with, and chop into pieces about the size of a date (or a chicken nugget)
  3. Fold the spices and sugar in to the chicken.
  4. Line the onions with prosciutto, leaving enough out to fold over the top
  5. Tuck the chicken inside the onions.
  6. Fold the prosciutto over the top, then put the onion caps back on.
  7. Cut cheesecloth to 8 pieces large enough to wrap and tie
  8. Wrap each onion in two layers of cheesecloth
  9. If you have a charcoal fire going, rake the coals to the side, and tuck the onions into the ashes.
  10. Cover them with more ash.
  11. Rake the coals back over the top.
  12. If not, put them in a pan in the oven,wrap with foil, and let them roast at about 350 for two hours or so, until the onions collapse.

RATINGS

-be careful cutting the onions, they fight back.

-have a use in mind for all of the shredded onion bits (I made baked beans with mine)

-outdoor cooking is outdoor cooking, know what you are getting into

-really not good for large scale service

+really nice, tasty, and fun for a small camp supper.

+once it’s in the fire, it’s low maintenance.

+really showy!

Preparation time at least an hour the first time; get a fire started, empty onions, cut up chicken.

Cooking time: 2-4 hour(s)

Number of servings (yield): one per onion

NOTE:

if you don’t use pork, when you trim the chicken, salt the skin heavily and set it aside for 20 minutes to drain. Rinse off the salt, then use this skin to line the inside of the onions. If you do this, eliminate salt in the seasoning of the chicken, as it will overwhelm.

The goal is a bit of fat, a bit of salt, a bit of vapor barrier.

The original wants partridge, so do consider dark meat, turkey, duck,  rather than a less-rich bird.

Sauce for a Gos
A Fifteenth Century Cookry Boke
Compiled by John L Anderson
Page 68

and
Salsa D’Oques, Goose Sauce
Sent Sovi

The Cookry Boke is a compilation of recipes from manuscripts commonly referred to as Harleian and Ashmolean, some owned by the British Museum, others by the Bodleian Library. These manuscripts contain many recipes, and are a kind of rosetta stone for cooks, having several touchstones of information to use as reference points. It’s quite common for these books, being from different countries and different centuries, to have related recipes. Some are more recognisable as being of a type than others.

This concept is interesting and simple; stuff a game bird with garlic, grapes, parsley and salt. When the bird is done, beat in cooked egg yolks, then add verjus, season, and serve.

grapes, herbs, a duck, garlic, and eggs assembled for preparation in bowls and dishes.

 

The Sent Sovi is quite similar, in that it calls for garlic, raisins and salt to be placed in the bird before roasting, then to pound it together with egg yolks and almond milk, spice it, cook it again, and finally add verjus and chicken livers.

The recipes are obviously similar, but one is either short-hand or simply a basic theme, while the Spanish iteration is explicit in direction, far more elaborate, and festive. It is more likely to be intended as a meal when there are guests than a regular offering.

We prepared the grape-based dish, and found it to be very well balanced, easy to make both in and out of the bird, and a lovely complement to the richness of the meat.

completed roast stuffed duck in a close fitting pan. The skin is scored to allow fat to drain.

roasted and ready for plating.

One thing to be aware of is what grapes might have been available at the time the recipe was developed. We had no options available but red seedless, though these do not have great flavor. I strongly suggest avoiding concords unless they grow in your yard, they have a very distinct flavor and are native to the US.

If you use a seeded grape, you may wish to run them through a food mill to remove the seeds after roasting and before blending.

Recipe

Recipe: Sauce for a Gos

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup garlic
  • 1/2 cup grapes
  • 1/2 cup whole fresh parsley, loosely packed
  • 1/2 Tbs salt
  • 3 hard egg yolks (see note)
  • 1/2 cup verjus, red wine, or red wine vinegar

Instructions

  1. Stuff the bird with the grapes, garlic, parsley and salt, roast til done.
  2. Alternative; sautee the above ingredients together in a bit of poultry drippings or oil.
  3. When the garlic is translucent and the grapes are ready to burst, remove and cool.
  4. Blend with the three hard boiled egg yolks, adding verjus as needed to make it into a sauce.
  5. There is not enough fat in this to emulsify into a mayonnaise-like consistency, it will be runny. Don’t worry if it doesn’t develop body.
  6. Slice the meat to be served and drizzle the sauce over it.

Number of servings (yield): 2

 

(Note for the eggs. Make 6 hard boiled eggs and save the whites from the ones you need for this recipe, make stuffed eggs. I’ll be posting that recipe in the not too distant future.)

After roasting, I found that the stuffing had not cooked to my preferences for food-safety, so I put it into a small pan on the stovetop til it was fully cooked.

Then, in a blender, I put three hard egg-yolks (saved the whites for lunch the next day) and added a fresh, red verjus.

Whipping in the blender did not emulsify the sauce, though I thought there might be a possibility that a mortar and pestle might create more of a creamy texture.

sliced breast of duck on a green plate, napped with a tan sauce with flecks of green herbs. The sauce is about the texture of hollandaise.

serving portion, waiting for sides and accompaniments.

+Verjus is not so acid as to unbalance the dish
+Eggs bring the sauce together
+Grapes, garlic and parsley tie into a very pleasant flavor.
+The sauce can be made in a pan or pot with broth, with little loss of flavor
+Most components are easily prepared in advance
+Doesn’t separate too quickly, and while it’s best hot, doesn’t suffer from being served tepid.
+The colors can easily be manipulated into something heraldic, if that amuses you