I think it counts as health food. It also falls under leftover buster.

I have been making quelquechoses this way for probably almost 10 years. It gets a lot of compliments, even when it doesn’t flip neatly.

A couple of things; the recipe after this in the book says you edit the ingredients and still be within the parameters; other meats, other vegetables.

I don’t add meat, because I don’t want to.

Quelquechose makes for a dense, rich breakfast or late supper.

 

To make a quelquechose, which is a mixture of many things together, take eggs and break them, and do away with one half of the whites, and after they are beaten put to them a good quantity of sweet cream, currants, cinnamon, cloves, mace, salt, and a little ginger, spinach, endive, and marigold flowers grossly chopped,, and beat them all very well together; then take pig’s pettitoes sliced, and grossly chopped, and mix them with the eggs, and with your hand stir them exceeding well together, then put sweet butter in your frying pan, and being melted, put in all the rest, and fry it brown without burning, ever and anon turning it til it be fried enough; then dish it up upon a flat plate, and cover it with sugar, and so serve it forth. Only herein is to be observed that your pettitoes must be very well boiled before you put them into the fricassee.

 

4 whole eggs

4 yolks

1/3 c heavy cream

1/4 c currants

1 lbs spinach (or kale, or cabbage, or chard) washed and torn, if needed

1-3 endives, depending on size, chopped

1/2 tsp cinnamon

8 cloves

4 or so blades of mace

a few chunks of ginger

bowls of separate ingredients

If you have pigs feet or other leftover meat cooked to the point of falling apart, reduce the spinach by half, or add another egg and yolk per 1/4 lbs.

 

Crush and combine the spices.

Pour a couple of tablespoons of the cream into the spices and blend them, then put the spices into the cream.
Add the currants to the cream as well, particularly if they are dry.

Fold the cream into the eggs.

Heat a 10-12″ pan, add a decent quantity of unsalted butter, about 2 TBS.

While the butter melts, fold the vegetables into the eggs

Pour the mixture into the pan. I have put a lid on top to help it set up more quickly, as flipping the omelet can be problematic.

omelet that broke while flipping

I used a nonstick pan, but it stuck. I ate it anyway, because it tastes very good.

I don’t add sugar for the dinner version, but I do for the party version.

 

 

Hard boiled eggs are ubiquitous. Part of a fast lunch, an ingredient in a green or mixed salad, they are dead common. Eggs are pretty portable and stable once they are cooked.

One modern variant on hard boiling eggs, particularly when large quantities are required, is to oven roast them at 300 for a half of an hour, Another is to roast them even longer, at about 200*F, for a full 5 hours.  Eggs are popular at a wide range of doneness, whether fully cooked through with a fully yellow yolk, or closer to soft boiled with a set white and runny yolk.

 

Recipe 153 calls for simply placing the raw egg on the coals, and turning it with a watchful eye til they are sweating, therefore done.

156 steps it up a notch, by asking the cook to crack the shell. That prevents turning and also allows the humidity in the egg to leave through the newly made cracks, so the tell of sweating shells is gone.

156 Get whole fresh eggs, put them on live coals, and strike them on top with a stick so they break, and let them cook; and when this trifle is cooked, take it out and put a little vinegar and parsley on top. They are good.

I don’t have a coalbed right now, and it is miserable out so I am not going to make one. However, I have a fair substitute.

Instead of building a woodfire, I put a thick layer of salt into a pan. This salt is only used for creating a hot bed, and can be used over and over.

six eggs lying on their sides, with the top side shattered. They are embedded about a quarter of the way deep in fine salt.

salt should be thick enough not to touch the pan, and must be preheated.

The salt is thick enough that the eggs, nestled comfortably in it, will not touch the pan itself.

The pan and salt get preheated in the oven, to about 300*.

6 eggs are placed in the hot salt and placed into the oven. At about 5 minutes, start watching for the smallest signs of browning. At no more than 12 minutes, remove them.

Allow to cool, and serve in shell, one or two per person as a side dish, with some red wine vinegar.

Honestly, other than for discussion, it is not worth doing this dish unless you have a decent coalbed going for other reasons. It’s easy to cook the eggs past rubber, and when properly done, they are not more interesting than a hard boiled egg.

 

 

Piglia tre pani he levali la crosta he gratali molto bene he metteli supra una tavola, he metteli atorno una libra he meza de bona farina; he mete cum lo dito pane quatro ho cingue oca he batile bene cum lo cultello risguardando sempre lo pane cum la dita farina; he quando te parirache sia minuto como (f* 8r) anesi confetti, pone ogni cosa in uno sedazo he cacia fora la farina; poi falli secare alo sole ho alo focho; et quando li vorai cocere, coceli in brodo de carne, he fallo ghialdo cum saffrono; he falle bullire adasio per spacio de meza hora; et mette de sopra le menestre caso he specie.

Take the crusts of three loaves of bread. grate them, set this on a table and lay out a pound of and a half of fine flour around it; and put five eggs in with the ground bread and beat that well with a knife, always being careful (to coat) the breadcrumbs well with the flour; and when you have lumps that look to you to be the size of candies aniseed, put everything into a sieve and discard the (excess) flour; then dry them in the sun or by the fire. When you want to cook them, use meat broth made yellow with saffron; boil them gently for half an hour, serve them up garnished with cheese and spices.

 

The book commentary says “think ditallini.” I disagree. I think “couscous.”

This is about the easiest recipe I have made to date, but it relies on a couple of factors.  Use of a food processor is extremely helpful for ease of production.

I saved the crusts from several loaves, and staled them in a low oven while it was cooling from making some other dishes.  I crushed them and processed them, then ran them through a coarse strainer to make sure they were of a size.

 

bread crusts stacked and placed on baking sheets to dry

making breadcrumbs

The first time I made this, I worked from the proportions in the book. Knowing I had 5 eggs of indeterminate size and a pound and a half (not modern pounds! only 12 oz lb, so 18 oz in modern parlance) of flour, I started with a half pound of bread crumbs. There was a lot of tweaking, as I made this dish on dry days and more humid days, and each time the proportions changed.   Be prepared to add more eggs or flour, but do not add more breadcrumbs, as the addition will become gummy and harder to recover.

After several batches, the following numbers are pretty reliable in a medium processor, and result in both a quantity that comfortably fits an oven and that feeds 4 people an ample portion.

.

1 c (150g) home made breadcrumbs (I do not suggest commercial, they have quite an ingredient list)

3 eggs, about 150g  to coat, a fourth in reserve for in case.

1/2 c (100g) farina, fine semolina, or other very fine low gluten flour, as needed.

To serve the dish, I needed

about a half gallon of nice broth, or a quart of stock. This is most of the flavor in the dish, so if it tastes good the dish will as well.

Saffron if you like it (I like it!)

4 oz ricotta, farmers cheese, queso fresco, or other creamy new cheese

1 tablespoon Spices as you prefer. I chose black pepper, canela, and clove.

 

Place the breadcrumbs in the processor, and add the eggs. Whir until you have  a homogeneous paste. It should look gritty, like concrete, rather than soupy.

Add flour until the mass separates into tiny pellets. If they seem too small or incompletely coated, add more egg then more flour until you feel you have a pleasantsize and presentation of pasta. Remember that too large a pellet will be difficult to dry, and uneven in an elegant serving.

Spread out evenly on baking sheets and place in the bright dry sun, or alternately, place in a low oven for several hours, There will be quite a bit of shrinkage. I choose to turn the pasta several times, to avoid clumping and aid drying.

coarse pellets laid out on two pans to dry in the oven

thin layers dry faster

You can now store the pasta in a cool dry container, such as a mason jar in the fridge. or a zip bag in the freezer.

 

In order to prepare the dish for service, put about a half cup of broth per person into a pot, and add the optional saffron.

When the broth is warm, add a quarter cup of pasta per person to the pot, and watch carefully, Add more broth as needed, as the pasta absorbs. I prefer the dish dry, but you may prefer it with more liquid. I prefer not to stir overmuch, just enough to prevent clumping.  I find it works much better to add pasta to broth, rather than the other way.

hot broth in a pot, the pasta is being poured in slowly while stirring to prevent clumping

gently adding the pasta do the broth

If there is too much broth, you might allow it to simmer down, but if there is not enough broth and you are running low, water will not ruin the dish.

To serve, place in a warmed bowl, top with a dollop of milky cheese, and sprinkle with spices. Alternately, this would be a lovely bed for a roast or braised dish.

There is a fair amount of room to adapt this dish, whether by using an herb or vegetable broth, or making it more brothy or more fluffy by changing the broth proportions. The only things that cannot be adjusted are that it is unabashedly an egg and wheat dish.

I like to cook. I like to cook a whole lot. Eating is important too, but cooking? That’s really what makes me happy. Knowing what needs to happen to make dinner into awesome, judging the moment to open the oven.  When I pull perfect chicken out, it gives me a thrill.

Complex sauces, balanced ingredient lists, and spice palettes bring out and enhance the scent of a rare mushroom, or make the reputation chestnuts enjoy make sense.

Sometimes, though, nothing sounds as good as a deviled egg or tuna salad. I can’t have either, so I need other go-to foods that I can think of as fast assemblies. A few ingredients, a few minutes, and maybe even a pan to clean, to put together something as nourishing as it is tasty.

Sodde Eggs are a dish I had enjoyed over the years, but learned more about through a good friend, John Marshall Atte Ford. He shared a variety of egg dishes and knew where to find information about them.

Since then, I have frequently enjoyed a Sodde Egg, but this time I chose to do something different.

I followed the instructions found online, and rather than enjoying the dish plain as an appetiser, served it on a green salad for a perfect late summer lunch

a single hard egg sliced into six wedges, nested in a mixed green salad and dressed with a whole-grain mustard sauce.

A sodde salad

I highly commend this recipe.

Seeth your Egges almost harde, then peele them and cut them in quarters, then take a little Butter in a frying panne and melt it a little broune, the put to it in to the panne, a little Vinegar, Mustarde, Pepper and Salte, and then put it into a platter upon your Egges.
–J. Partridge, The Widowes Treasure, 1585

(found at http://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD/eggs-msg.text)

Recipe: Sodde Eggs

a plate with three hard boiled eggs and a stick of butter. Next to the plate are a jar of verjus, a jar of mustard, a peppermill, and a salt bowl.

a few extra eggs means lunch another day.

Ingredients

  • Not mentioned above: a good handful of salad greens.
  • 1 hard boiled egg
  • 1 ½ Tbs butter.
  • 1 ½ Tbs vinegar (I used verjus)
  • 1 ½ Tbs mustard (I used lumbard)
  • 1 pinch salt (adjust for salted/unsalted butter)
  • 1 pinch pepper

Instructions

  1. Slice your egg prettily to show off the lovely yolk.
  2. Place your salad greens, then center the egg in the nest of greens.
  3. Melt the butter in a heavy pan over low heat. It can burn quickly, your goal is to allow it to gently and calmly foam, then begin to turn very slightly amber.
  4. Add salt and pepper. If using salted butter, go easier on the salt.
  5. When the butter is beginning to show a color change, not quite to manila but no longer buttercup, lower the temperature on the pan, and add the vinegar and mustard.
  6. Be very aware of hot vinegar fumes! The mustard and vinegar are both prone to sending painfully sharp steam.
  7. Pour the hot sauce over the egg, and serve quickly before the butter begins to cool.

Ratings

– I rarely have hard eggs in the fridge

+ simple

+delicious

+flexible

+ fast

Preparation time: 10 minute(s)

Cooking time: 5 minute(s)

Number of servings (yield): 1

All of the variation in this dish is based on the type of mustard and the type of vinegar you choose.

I used verjus and Lumbard mustard from Curye on Inglish http://carbonadoes.com/2012/03/31/120/

a large frying pan, bottom completely coated with butter. Verjus and a dollop of mustard have just been added, causing steam to billow.

It goes very quickly once the mustard and vinegar are in the pan.

but a red wine vinegar would give a nice depth, and a cider vinegar would preserve the lovely amber color.

I can’t say I won’t ever want a deviled egg again, but with this dish, I’m a lot less likely to miss them.

Gnocci! We make ricotta gnocci fairly regularly, it’s neat to see how far back the idea goes.

Martino calls for fresh soft balls of cheese to be crushed with eggs, spiced, blended with flour, then gently poached, and served as “naked ravioli,” modernly called “gnudi” and somewhat related to gnocchi.

While the book calls for provatura, I had access to burrata,  a (modern) type of mozzerella stuffed with cream, so this is what I used.

All of the ingredients, nothing done to them yet

It turns out I don't have white flour after all. This is whole wheat

bowls with ingredients prepared; eggs whipped, cheese crushed, ginger crushed.

Eggs whipped, cheese crushed, ginger crushed. Ready to measure.

I crushed ginger, cracked and separated eggs, whipped the whites with sugar, folded in flour, and poached in heavily salted water.

 

These were incredibly fragile, gently raising the temp on them until they boiled helped them keep their shape, but it was still a delicate task.

The most useful thing I did to control the disintegration was to allow them to set up in the fridge overnight before poaching. They are still fragile, but far less so.

One hint I read was to make the dumplings, put them on a tray, and let them sit long enough to develop a “skin” to help them hold shape.

small balls of brown lumpy cheese dumplings with a dusting of cinnamon sugar

Not the most attractive, but probably one of the best received dishes I have made.

Recipe: To Make White Ravioli

Ingredients

  • 1 cup (3 balls) Provatura (fresh mozzerella with some ricotta, cream, butter. Perhaps Burratta. Something fresh and nice) crushed
  • 1 TBS butter
  • 1 tsp dry powdered ginger
  • ½ cup egg whites
  • 1 TBS sugar
  • ½ cup flour, plus ¼ c for coating
  • 1 gallon salted water, for poaching
  • 1 tsp cinnamon sugar

Instructions

  1. Crush the cheese with the butter til it is about the texture of pancake batter.
  2. Crush the ginger
  3. Separate eggs until you have about a half-cup.
  4. Fold the sugar into the eggs,whip them til they are consistently runny, rather than to a mergingue.
  5. Add flour a spoonful at a time until it feels like an actual dough, but try to stop before it feels sticky.
  6. Refrigerate dough til chilled.
  7. Make dumpling shapes, roll in flour to coat.
  8. Set a pot of salted water to simmer, but don’t allow to boil.  (my preference for salted water is “briny like the ocean”)
  9. Drop dumplings one at a time, very gently. They really want to fall apart.
  10. When they begin to float, wait a moment, then remove them gently.
  11. Plate with a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar.

Ratings

– expensive

– delicate

– a la minute; can’t easily be premade

+ delicious!

+ attractive

+ currently trendy

Sauce for a Gos
A Fifteenth Century Cookry Boke
Compiled by John L Anderson
Page 68

and
Salsa D’Oques, Goose Sauce
Sent Sovi

The Cookry Boke is a compilation of recipes from manuscripts commonly referred to as Harleian and Ashmolean, some owned by the British Museum, others by the Bodleian Library. These manuscripts contain many recipes, and are a kind of rosetta stone for cooks, having several touchstones of information to use as reference points. It’s quite common for these books, being from different countries and different centuries, to have related recipes. Some are more recognisable as being of a type than others.

This concept is interesting and simple; stuff a game bird with garlic, grapes, parsley and salt. When the bird is done, beat in cooked egg yolks, then add verjus, season, and serve.

grapes, herbs, a duck, garlic, and eggs assembled for preparation in bowls and dishes.

 

The Sent Sovi is quite similar, in that it calls for garlic, raisins and salt to be placed in the bird before roasting, then to pound it together with egg yolks and almond milk, spice it, cook it again, and finally add verjus and chicken livers.

The recipes are obviously similar, but one is either short-hand or simply a basic theme, while the Spanish iteration is explicit in direction, far more elaborate, and festive. It is more likely to be intended as a meal when there are guests than a regular offering.

We prepared the grape-based dish, and found it to be very well balanced, easy to make both in and out of the bird, and a lovely complement to the richness of the meat.

completed roast stuffed duck in a close fitting pan. The skin is scored to allow fat to drain.

roasted and ready for plating.

One thing to be aware of is what grapes might have been available at the time the recipe was developed. We had no options available but red seedless, though these do not have great flavor. I strongly suggest avoiding concords unless they grow in your yard, they have a very distinct flavor and are native to the US.

If you use a seeded grape, you may wish to run them through a food mill to remove the seeds after roasting and before blending.

Recipe

Recipe: Sauce for a Gos

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup garlic
  • 1/2 cup grapes
  • 1/2 cup whole fresh parsley, loosely packed
  • 1/2 Tbs salt
  • 3 hard egg yolks (see note)
  • 1/2 cup verjus, red wine, or red wine vinegar

Instructions

  1. Stuff the bird with the grapes, garlic, parsley and salt, roast til done.
  2. Alternative; sautee the above ingredients together in a bit of poultry drippings or oil.
  3. When the garlic is translucent and the grapes are ready to burst, remove and cool.
  4. Blend with the three hard boiled egg yolks, adding verjus as needed to make it into a sauce.
  5. There is not enough fat in this to emulsify into a mayonnaise-like consistency, it will be runny. Don’t worry if it doesn’t develop body.
  6. Slice the meat to be served and drizzle the sauce over it.

Number of servings (yield): 2

 

(Note for the eggs. Make 6 hard boiled eggs and save the whites from the ones you need for this recipe, make stuffed eggs. I’ll be posting that recipe in the not too distant future.)

After roasting, I found that the stuffing had not cooked to my preferences for food-safety, so I put it into a small pan on the stovetop til it was fully cooked.

Then, in a blender, I put three hard egg-yolks (saved the whites for lunch the next day) and added a fresh, red verjus.

Whipping in the blender did not emulsify the sauce, though I thought there might be a possibility that a mortar and pestle might create more of a creamy texture.

sliced breast of duck on a green plate, napped with a tan sauce with flecks of green herbs. The sauce is about the texture of hollandaise.

serving portion, waiting for sides and accompaniments.

+Verjus is not so acid as to unbalance the dish
+Eggs bring the sauce together
+Grapes, garlic and parsley tie into a very pleasant flavor.
+The sauce can be made in a pan or pot with broth, with little loss of flavor
+Most components are easily prepared in advance
+Doesn’t separate too quickly, and while it’s best hot, doesn’t suffer from being served tepid.
+The colors can easily be manipulated into something heraldic, if that amuses you