The final dish, heavy on the chicken, light on the vegetables.

Bukkenade is a great leftovers dish. I love leftovers dishes. Not everything needs to be a lot of fuss.

 Bukkenade. Take hennes or connynges or veel or othere flessh & hewe hem to gobettes. Waische it and sethe hit well. Grynde almaundes vnblaunched, and drawe hem vp with the broth; cast therinne raysouns of couraunce, sugur, powdour gynger, erbes ystewed in grees, oynouns and salt. If it is to thynne, alye it vp with flour of ryse or with other thyng, and colour it with safroun.

I made this dish using things on hand, though the greens were not leftover.

My garden gave me Rutabaga tops, Hyssop, Salad Burnet, Lovage, and Sage, as well as a few decently large Spring Onions.

herbed piled on a board waiting to be chopped.

Herbs

I sliced it all to chiffonade, and fried it with salt in chicken fat from the broth.

the board, the knife, the herbs ready to fry

Herbs ready to fry, sliced finely. I did not use all of the onion top

2 cups Leftover chicken, picked over, cubed.
1 c herbs and vegetables
1 Tbs chicken fat or olive oil
1 1/2 c Almond milk
1/2 c Chicken broth, if the almond milk was not made with it
1/4 c Currants
1 tsp sugar
1/4 tsp powdered ginger
1/2 c total fried greens (subrecipe)
1/2 tsp salt in total, no matter which step it came in from.
1 tsp rice flour, muddled in cold water, held aside.
1 pinch saffron, in water, if you wish, held aside

One small pot
One medium pan
1 knife, board
1 spatula
1 ladle

Rinse herbs and vegetables, slice them very finely.
Add to the pan with the oil, sautee until done.
Add the chicken, warm through.

In pot, place almond milk, and if not made with chicken originally, add broth.
Add currants, ginger, and sugar.

 

almond milk with currants and ginger

Almond milk with currants and ginger

When almond mixture is warm, add to the chicken mixture. Simmer until almond milk begins to thicken. Taste for salt. Add if needed.
Add saffron if you wish, it is just for color.

Chicken, vegetables, and almond milk together in the pan, beginning to cook together

Chicken, vegetables, and almond milk together in the pan, beginning to cook together

If you wish, add the rice slurry, and simmer for a further 5 minutes to allow the starch to cook.

Adding rice flour slurry to thicken. Otherwise fully cooked.

Adding rice flour slurry to thicken. Otherwise fully cooked.

Serve.

 

The sauce isn’t gloppy, it’s light, creamy, and nice. You might like more ginger, I am not a fan so I have a light hand with it.

 

This dish could easily be adapted to a Vegetables with Chicken dish by changing the proportions and types of vegetables.

Bukkenade can also be made into  a group service dish by layering the greens with chicken, pouring the sauce over, and baking, much like a spinach souffle.

It could also be adapted to a Vegetables with Chicken dish by changing proportions.

I have been asked to make this dish again.

 

 

Hieatt, C. B. (1985). Curye on Inglysch: English culinary manuscripts of the 14. century : (including the Forme of Cury). London [u.a.: Oxford Univ. Press.

One iteration of this is the very first recipe in Daz Buch von guter spise, and variants appear throughout the book. It’s clear that sour cherries are well used and appreciated in early German cuisine.

The commonalities among the dishes called Concauelite or Konkavelite are the call for cherries, almonds, and rice flour, though there are some minor variations. I opted to make one iteration of the dish, in this case number 83.

For 83, a Concauelit, I assembled the ingredients and measured them out, only to discover that I have no rice flour. After some discussion and consideration, I made some oat flour and continued on.

almonds, cherries, a cherry pitter, a bowl of goose fat, three small bowls with salt, poudre douce, and sugar respectively, and a bowl of oat flour.

the setup.

Recipe: Konkavelite 83

Ingredients

  • ½ lb almonds
  • 2 c water
  • ½ lb sour cherries
  • ½ c sweeter red wine.
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • ½ tsp poudre douce (sweet spice mix. Cinnamon sugar is the simplest variant)
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • ½ c oat flour. (err on the side of less, it can wind up a little like a superball)
  • 1/4 c fat. Book calls for lard, a mild olive oil would be good. Almond oil would be delicious.

Instructions

  1. Boil almonds til the skins slip, or soak overnight. Pop off the skins, and blender with clean water til it’s liquid. Strain. Save the solids for something else. I have seen modern German varietals of this dish which retain the solids, and can’t say as that’s a bad idea, but it’s not suggested in the original source.  My yield; 1 cup.
  2. Poach cherries in wine til they pop and the house smells great. Watch for burning and sticking.
  3. I ran them through a food mill, the recipe says to squeeze in a cloth. I did not want to lose juice to a bag. If you do this, I strongly suggest pitting the cherries in advance. While the seeds add another layer of almond flavor, they are painful projectiles when flung from a food mill.  My yield; 1/2 cup
  4. Pour cherry juice into almond milk. Simmer.
  5. Add rice (or in my case, oat) flour, simmer til thickening to your preference. I went for a tapioca-like consistency.
  6. Season while still on the heat.
  7. Add the fat a teaspoon at a time, I used a tablespoon. It was starting to look slick, so I stopped.
  8. Recheck seasoning.
  9. Allow to cool, either serve warm or chill for service at a later time.

Ratings

-quite fiddly; several steps

-can be messy! Sticky dishes.

-Very scarce seasonal ingredient.

-Challenging to make larger batches

-contains some of the more common allergens (tree nuts, cherries, wine, sulfites within the wine)

+ a little goes a long way, it is dessert-like.

+ pairs very well with many other dessert options, such as wafers.

+ sour cherries freeze well, and are sometimes available as a bottled juice, therefore this might be manageable out of season.

+ excellent candidate for advance preparation

 

whole cherries cooking til they pop in red winein a small pan

nature's candy

We ate it chilled. The wine was a predominant flavor, the almonds less notable. Sweetness was minimal. It did not particularly make either of us think of a unified dessert, though we both thought it would be a lovely part or ingredient in a more elaborate composition, such as a trifle (not historically appropriate) or with wafers and “food for angels”, a dessert cheese fluff I will visit eventually.

I think I like it best as part of a cheese platter, served with the same wine as is in it.

Concauelit ready to serve warm or to chill.

I would definitely serve this to guests,  but with the awareness that it might be confusing for the palate.

Remember “lemon chicken” from the takeout American style Chinese place when we were kids? It was so unexpected, sweet and sour, dense and light at the same time. Remember trying it again when we were older, expecting some of that surprise and amusement again, but instead finding a heavy, gloppy starch bomb with more of the bitter than the sour from the lemons, and more of the cloying than balance from the sweetener?

 

This is not that. This is what we wish that had been all along.

 

lemons, spices, a bowl of broth, a bowl of almonds, skin removed, a pile of peppercorns, a little saffon, and a small bowl of sugar (consider it a spice)

an unlikely shopping list

This Catalan sauce is rich and complex, sour, sweet, light, earthy, balanced, and fun. It’s a little demanding, a little fussy, but it’s special enough to do what it takes to make it, and find excuses to serve it.

 

One of the hallmarks of Pre-Columbian European food is the heavy reliance on almonds. Every time I do make an almond-milk based recipe, particularly one calling for significant boiling or acid, I wonder why this wonder ingredient ever left our common repertoire. Is this an American prejudice, or a more general modern one?

 

creamy almond milk in a pan, with chicken broth showing through

as rich as it can be

One note in the translation I have access to is to add “sweetener” at the end, seemingly differentiated from all of the notes about sugar. I need to spend more time with the manuscript to clarify that.

 

a chicken leg in a bowl sitting in the lemon sauce

Definitely needed a bowl.

Recipe: Lemon Sauce

Summary: Sent Sovi

Ingredients

  • 1 ½ cup almonds
  • 2 cups chicken broth or stock
  • 3 TBS sugar
  • ½ cup lemon juice (3-4 lemons)
  • 1/8 tsp ginger, powdered
  • 1/8 tsp pepper, ground
  • 1/8 tsp saffron
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • a little mace, a couple of cloves, a bit of cinnamon, or the spices which strike you as wise

Instructions

  1. Soak the almonds overnight, slip the skins. If they will not slip, poach them in hot water for just a moment, dunk them in cold water, and try again.
  2. Simultaneously put saffron into warm water, let it sit.
  3. Grind any spices which need grinding.
  4. Warm the stock if it is set from storage, and put it with the almonds in the blender.
  5. Whiz.
  6. Strain
  7. Chuck the solids unless you have an immediate use, they would be nice in stuffing a chicken, or mincing with some poultry into a forcemeat for a pie. I’d be leery of saving them even in the freezer for future use, too easy to mix up.
  8. Put resulting liquid into a pot
  9. Add spices and sugar, but not salt or lemon quite yet.
  10. Simmer.
  11. Taste for salt, adjust.
  12. Add the saffron with it’s liquid.
  13. Begin to add lemon juice, ¼ cup first, then a little at a time until you like the flavor. Be mindful that there will be a final shot of acid from verjus at the last moment.
  14. Allow the pot to boil, but watch it closely, it will try very hard to boil over.
  15. After a solid couple of minutes boiling, allow it to cool, taste again for salt and seasonings.
  16. Add any spices which need a little boost, a shot of verjus, and adjust the sugar.
  17. The addition of verjus adds a new dimension to the acid from the lemon, providing a complexity and depth. It’s pleasant without, but fascinating with.
  18. If you find it too runny for service in your situation, you can thicken it pretty easily, but that will affect reheating.

Variations

Ratings:

-absolutely requires fresh lemons

-some people find it too tart

-quite runny and wet

-needs constant attention

-needs careful measuring and planning

-really benefits from the verjus, can be insipid without

+can be scaled up with caution

+overnights well for three days

+can take a hard boil without damage

+Once you know how much lemon juice you prefer in this sauce, you can just pre-measure everything and dump it all in.

Preparation time: 1 day to soak almonds, or blanching time

Cooking time: 20 minute(s)

Number of servings (yield): 4

Sent Sovi 91; Chickens

I will find nearly any excuse to roast a chicken. It’s so ingrained in my mind that it can be hard to talk myself into poaching one.

The idea of poaching in almond milk had been rattling around; I had been challenged to make a soup, and this had been one of the possibilities I had entertained.

The recipe calls for a pound of almonds (keep in mind the 12 ounce pound as opposed to the more modern 16 oz pound, though it’s less of a requirement to be precise with this recipe than some), which are boiled to slip the skins. The almonds were far less plump and giving than when they soak overnight, but the skins slipped easily and they did give enough almond milk to do the job. Often almonds are milked after a long soak, it was nice to have an excuse to use the expedient boiling method.

all of the ingredients needed for the dish measured and laid out; a bowl with almonds and saffron, a tin of saffron, a chicken, and some broth, not called for, but on hand for in case of lacking almond milk.

I broke out the saffron!


The almonds went through the blender with the parsley. This does make quite a different texture than that of a mortar and pestle, but health makes its own demands. don’t have the endurance required for pestle work.

I pressed the solids to get as much milk as I could, and it came up the color of a shamrock shake. It was honestly kind of scary looking.

a strainer contains the solids, the pot beneath the almond milk. It is a disconcerting shade of green, more a candy color than a broth shade.

almond milk. really.


Once this broth came to a low simmer, I added the chicken and popped a lid on top.
When it finished, the leg quarters fell off and were tender as can be, but the breast was moist and not in any way dry or stringy. It had a mild, clean flavor.
The green broth browned to a far less appealing color, nothing I could think of could save the appearance. The saffron brought it even further into the browns, unfortunately.
two chicken leg quarters in a bowl, in about an inch of broth. The broth, no longer a candy green, now has a brown and gold note to it.

tender, but no longer as vivid a shade of green.


The leftover was moist and pleasant, with a soft and refreshing flavor.

3 oz almonds
3 oz fresh (not dry) parsley)
1 chicken
a little saffron, if you wish
1 pot with snug lid

-not such a pretty service sauce, doesn’t really make a soup.
-needs to be well tended; over or under-poached chicken is sad and depressing
-makes it harder to repurpose bones for broth (almond allergy is common)
+ cheap ingredients
+ quick-fix almond milk
+ no undesirable chicken bits

Next time I make this, I will try soaking the almonds the night before, to see if the yield affects the product.