9 dumplings, about an inch in all directions, on a plate.


To mak hattes in flesche tyme:

To mak hattes in flesshe tyme mak a paiste of pured
flour, knodene with yolks of eggs and mak a stuf of
vele or pork sodene tender and ground with yolks of
eggs putther to mary diced and dates mynced smalle
and raissins of corrans with sugur saffron and salt and
pouder mellid to gedur in paiste and wound foilles of
the brod of a saucere as thyn as ye may dryf them and
dryf them that the bredes may cuver to the middes of
the foile then turn them to gedur that the bredes of
the inor sid met all about and lesse the bred and turn
upward without in the manner of an hatte and close
welle the eggs that they hold full ther in and luk the
stuf haue a good batter made with yolks of eggs and
flour of whet the open sid that is downward luk ther
in that the stuf be clossed and so set it in hot grece up
right and when the battur is fried lay them doun and
serve them.

To make hats in flesh time, make a paste of pure
flour, kneaded with yolks of eggs and make a stuffing
of veal or pork poached tender and ground with yolks of
eggs. Put thereto marrow diced and dates minced small,
and currants and sugar, saffron, and salt, and
powder melded together in paste and wound foils of
the breadth of a saucer and thin as you may draw them and
draw them that the breads may cover the mids of
the goil, then turn them together that the breads of
the inner side meet all about and lease the bread and turn
upward without in the manner of a hat, and close
well the eggs that they hold therein, and look therein
that the stuff be closed and so set it in hot grease up
right and when the batter is fried lay them down and
serve them.

To make hats in flesh time, make egg pasta.

Make a stuffing of veal or pork seethed tender,
with egg yolks, diced marrow, minced dates,
currants, sugar, saffron, salt and “powder” melded together.

all of the ingredients laid out, most of them measured in individual containers.

all in place

Put the stuffing in the dough following rather elaborate instructions which
lead to a dumpling shaped like a hat.

Hattes (14)Hattes (15)Hattes (16) Hattes (17)


Make a batter of yolks and flour. Dip the tops of the dumplings in the batter to
be certain the dumplings are all sealed.

Hattes (18)

Fry them til they are pretty and serve them.
I did not poach my meat, as it was preground.
I did not roast my marrow bones. If they smell in any way of ammonia, do not use them.
Whether the yolks are to be preboiled or not for this dish is a question. As most dishes from the basic cuisine do call for hard cooked yolks, I made the assumption. My preferred proportion is 1 yolk per ¼ lb of meat to be used. I find that more than that can be mealy, while less is not up to the task of keeping a dish moist while helping flavors interact.
We had quite a discussion on the nature of Powder. The book this is from has all kinds of powders, with it sometimes referring explicitly to salt, or saffron, or ginger, but sometimes with no signifiers.
I opted for pepper, as it figures regularly in the book as a companion to salt.

If you choose to freeze a part of the recipe, do so before battering, and reduce the batter quantity by the portion appropriate. Place the sealed dumplings on a sheet and freeze them solid, the move them to a bag for storage. They can be fried directly from frozen.

I placed the number that fit in my fryer at a time, which happens to be 8.

The batter destroyed my frying oil, It could not be saved for other dishes. We did not mind.

The Recipe;

2 packs of won ton wrappers (about 50 in the pack, contained egg and nothing weird)
1.5 lbs pork, veal, or as a modern sub, turkey, poached then ground, or simply ground.
6 hard boiled egg yolks, mashed well.
3 oz bone marrow, minced
¼ c currants
¼ c dates, minced
1 tsp sugar
1.5 tsp salt
.5 tsp pepper
1 pinch saffron (you can skip it. We like it. We tasted it.)

For the batter;

For the batter, I used raw yolks. The word is spelled the same way, which was no clue, but I have seen many recipes for a modern whipped egg yolk batter which is quite pleasant, and impossible with cooked yolks.

6 raw yolks, whipped til they turn creamy and pale
add ½ c water, slowly, while continuing to whip.
Add ½ c cake flour or similar, slowly and gently. It will hold well for about a half hour.
Reserve the whites to glue the dumplings shut.

Frying oil, at least an inch deep, and all of the equipment needed for safe frying

For the dumplings;
Blend the entire list of ingredients til it is evenly distributed. Fry a tidbit and taste for seasonings, I am known for a very light hand with salt.

Place a half of an ounce (I used a disher) of meat in the center of each wrapper. Glue the four corners together, making a little pyramid. Seal the sides.
When they are all done,
dip the pointy tops in the batter.

Fry til they are a pale golden color. Drain on a towel, and serve.


In discussion, we agreed that a cameline would have been an excellent side, of course depending on the cameline.
This led to a lively debate on the nature of Poudre Lombard, at which point we retired.
To mak sauce camelyn for quaylle

To mak sauce camelyne for quaile, tak whyt bred
and drawe it in the sauce in the manner of guinger
sauce with venyger put ther to pouder of guinger
canelle and pouder-lombard a goodelle and ye may
draw alitille mustard ther with and sesson it up with
mustard that it be douce salt it and colour it with
saffron and serue it.


I'm referring to a website, please let me know if there is a better way.


Capon or goos roste

 A Noble Boke off Cookry Title Statement:
 A Noble boke off cookry ffor a prynce houssolde or eny other estately houssolde :
reprinted verbatim from a rare ms. in the Holkham collection / edited by Mrs. Alexander Napier. London:
 Elliot Stock, 1882. Description: xiii, 136 p. ; 23 cm. LCCN: 88195361 Transcription by Daniel Myers -
 September 12, 2007 Completed and corrected on August 18, 2008 (c) 2008 MedievalCookery.com

 To rost capon or gose tak and drawe his leuer and
his guttes at the vent and his grece at the gorge and
tak the leef of grece parsly ysope rosmarye and ij lengs
of saige and put to the grece and hew it smale and hew
yolks of eggs cromed raissins of corans good poudurs
saffron and salt melled to gedure and fers the capon
there withe and broche hym and let hym be stanche
at the vent and at the gorge that the stuffur go not
out and rost hym long with a soking fyere and kep
the grece that fallithe to baist hym and kepe hym moist
till ye serue hym and sauce hym with wyne and
guingere as capons be.


a slice of chicken breast, a small metal bowl half full of red-wine based cameline sauce, and a quarter cup of minced herb-based stuffing on a light green plate

just needs a salad.

This recipe was chosen based on a convergence of a really lovely chicken entering the house just as I got some hyssop to familiarise myself with.

The site I found it on, http://www.medievalcookery.com/ , is excellent. I have not worked with this manuscript before, and look forward to spending more time with it.


Capons are the castrati of poultry. They are fat and tender, with lush meat.  I have a pasture chicken, which is far less fat than a capon would be and certainly not lush, it’s been running around and trying to fly.

This limits the amount of fat available for the recipe as well as the quantity of basting grease. Because of this, I basted with olive oil.

I do not cook with rosemary, so eliminated that herb, and was out of currants so used raisins, which we did have in the house.

After hard boiling and cooling my eggs, I separated out the yolks. I should have used more, as seven were not enough to completely fill the cavity. This was also impacted by the relative leanness of the bird I had, the fat from a capon would have given far more bulk to the stuffing.

a raw chicken in a plastic container in the background, in the foreground a pottery plate with fresh parsley and sage, a small pile of saffron, dried hyssop, a number of hard-boiled egg yolks and the fat pulled from inside the chicken.

mise en place

The instructions call for mincing the capon’s fat with the herbs and yolks, then stuffing the bird and sewing it shut to prevent the stuffing from falling out. As there is not enough stuffing to leak, and I am not roasting on a spit, I opted not to truss the bird.

A food processor made short work of the stuffing mixture, though it later turned out to have left the herbs somewhat twig-like. Next time, I will use a knife and mortar rather than the machine.


The chicken was cooked at 400* for a bit over an hour, then at 300 for another half hour, then allowed to rest for 15 minutes. I did this as a general emulation of spit-roasting and moving the meat from the fire.

It was served off the bone with cameline sauce and the stuffing.


a close-up shot of the whole, cooked chicken with a view of the stuffing inside

cooked to a turn, figuratively typing.

The instructions call for service to be sauced with wine and ginger. I made a cameline sauce using the guidelines from the same website, more on that another time.

While I found the flavor of the stuffing pleasant enough, the texture was displeasing between the mealiness of the egg yolks and the twigginess of the herbs. Again, the lack of chicken fat showed. W was not a fan of the stuffing at all, as he is not fond of herbal notes and this is quite herbal. He loved the poultry itself though.



took a good long time to cook, so an oven killer.

stuffing is wasteful of egg whites; perfect for serving when you are also doing a filled egg.

Capons cost more than a car, it seems.

Can’t taste or smell the saffron.

Needs more than a little fat in the stuffing, so save some from one bird to bolster the next

Tasty and attractive

Stuffing is flavorful and very evocative of 14th Century English food.

I would make this again if I needed to find a use for boiled egg yolks, and would go out of my way for a capon to serve this to honored guests, along with a variety of sauces, a salad with similar herbs, and a loaf of bread. It’s got a festive note with the attractively colored, rich stuffing.