I had a thought while reading the other day.
A lot of recipes call for “fat broth”. Broth with fat on it is kind of vile, to our taste. We modernly have the tradition of clear stocks and soups.
However, the Japanese have both clear broths and ramen stock, which is a stock of bones boiled hard, with salt in the water. This not only leaches calcium into the broth, but also suspends great amounts of rich fat throughout.
Many of our instructions for cooking call for “boil the hen, then roast”. We think to seethe, not *boil*, and we think to use the poaching liquid as broth.
In a large service kitchen such as these, where groups of 20 or more were regular and more than that were not rare, it is possible that the bones were tossed into a common stockpot and boiled, rather than simmered, which would give more body, thickness, richness and mouthfeel to the broth, without the slick we all dread.