Figge (4)

If you enjoy the occasional cheese platter with trimmings, you are likely familiar with Pan des Higos, the fig wedge stuffed with Marcona almonds.

This is similar, but with raisins instead of almonds. It benefits from access to some equipment, and from patience,

Simmering the figs in wine takes some care. You want them to plump, then begin to burst, but be cautious not to allow any to burn.

Figge (5)

A figge

To mak a figge tak figges and boile them in wyne
then bray them in a mortair put ther to bred and
boile it with wyne cast ther to clowes maces guinger
pynes and hole, raissins and florisshe it withe pongar-
nettes and serue it.
4 lbs figs
1 lbs raisins
1 bottle wine (I used a riesling type, semisec. Pick one that goes well with figs.)

1 tsp cloves
2 tsp ginger
2 tsp mace
1/2 tsp salt

Fig jam for the cheeses

Bowl, spreader.

Simmer figs in wine til they are soft and bursting.
Run through a meat grinder.

Fold in raisins and spices.

Place in a mold or form.

Put in a warm oven or cool area overnight to set, then unmold, wrap in paper, and store for as long as it needs to dry some.

Cut into wedges, wrap and store, serve as an accompaniment to cheeses.

 

We both tasted as we seasoned, in hopes of enhancing the flavors rather than spicing the food. It’s meant to complement other foods rather than to be a centerpiece.

I was dreading braying it in a mortar. This would be outdoor work, with a fair amount of loss, as cooked figs are so juicy. Instead, it went through the meat grinder. That took about 10 minutes and was far less scary than a mortar would have been.

Figge (7)

After adding the raisins and spicing it, the dish is to be served. However, we need a dry consistency, and a dish which will hold, so I put it into pans and dehydrated it.

It is currently wrapped in paper, on a rack, awaiting the day it will be served. I can’t wait.

Cormarye (10)

Cormarye. XX.II. XIII. Take Colyandre, Caraway smale grounden, Powdour of Peper and garlec ygrounde in rede wyne, medle alle þise togyder and salt it, take loynes of Pork rawe and fle of the skyn, and pryk it wel with a knyf and lay it in the sawse, roost þerof what þou wilt, & kepe þat þat fallith þerfro in the rosting and seeþ it in a possynet with faire broth, & serue it forth witþ þe roost anoon.

Cormarye (12)

I had not run into this dish before, but it was on a menu recently and intrigued me. The spices are very simple. The instructions are very basic. The results remind me of pastrami. Thanks much to Annetje van Woerden for pointing out the recipe!

Take coriander, caraway ground small, pepper, garlic which has been crushed in red wine. Meddle all this together and salt it. Take raw pork loin, well pricked, and lay it in the sauce. Roast it, but keep the fat.  When it is roasted, seeth it in a tight pot in nice broth. Include the drippings.

Cormarye (3)

So simple, so good.

I have done this with many types of meat and not been unhappy with it. My favorite is short ribs.

3 TBS whole coriander

3 TBS whole caraway seeds, crushed well

5 cloves of garlic

1/2 bottle of red wine

4 LBS meat

2 TBS salt

Trim your meat of silverskin, but leave the fat cap.
Prick the meat to allow the marinade to penetrate.

Place in a zip bag.

Pour the spices in the bag, add wine, and squeeze out the air.

Allow to sit overnight or longer, if you wish, it will only improve.

Roast on a rack. I like to put a little water in the bottom of the pan so the drippings don’t burn.

Allow to cool, then seethe (or steam) the meat.

You can carve a larger, roasted piece into useful sections and steam at need.

It’s rather simple, it’s very tasty, and it’s very flexible.

Compost (9)

If you are familiar with Mostardo or Chutney, this dish is pretty approachable.

It’s a mixed pickle of several vegetables, simmered then marinated. It can be canned, and it lasts a fair time.

First, if you don’t have lombard mustard, you might wish to make some.

I like equal proportions of mustard seed, honey, and wine vinegar by weight, and to allow it to age for at least a week in the fridge.

COMPOST. C. Take rote of parsel. pasternak of rasenns. scrape hem waisthe hem clene. take rapes & caboches ypared and icorne. take an erthen panne with clene water & set it on the fire. cast all þise þerinne. whan þey buth boiled cast þerto peeres & parboile hem wel. take þise thynges up & lat it kele on a fair cloth, do þerto salt whan it is colde in a vessel take vineger & powdour & safroun & do þerto. & lat alle þise thinges lye þerin al nyzt oþer al day, take wyne greke and hony clarified togider lumbarde mustard & raisouns corance al hool. & grynde powdour of canel powdour douce. & aneys hole. & fenell seed. take alle þise thynges & cast togyder in a pot of erthe. and take þerof whan þou wilt & serue forth.

Take Parsley root, Carrot (or parsnip), scrape and wash.
Take turnips and cabbages, trimmed appropriately
Put them in a pot, and cook them through.
When they are done, blanch pears.
Blend the items together, and cool overnight.
The next day, when chilled, add salt
then vinegar, “powder” (pepper), and saffron.
The day after that, add “Greek” wine and honey which have been blended together,
and lumbard mustard, as well as currants.
Add cinnamon, poudre douce, and whole anise.
Put it all in a crock, and serve at need.

I keep lumbard mustard and poudre douce in stock, and kept pretty decent records of my garden’s productivity, so I had a good sense of what would have been available.

I am using a moscato as my wine.

I made this a few times. Once, I tried cutting all of the vegetables into different shapes. It wasn’t nice. I ran them through a shredder, a processor, and so on. Eventually I got to cutting them all as close to matchstick as I could, and it worked out nicely.

Also, I don’t recommend those giant storage carrots, they have a watery sweetness that works well in other dishes but not so well in this one.
3 medium carrots, matchstick or rounds

And / Or

2  large parsnips, matchstick

2 larger white turnips, matchstick

1 bunch radishes, about 8-10, matchstick

1/2 medium green cabbage, shredded

4-6 hard pears, chopped

2 TBS -1/2 cup salt

1.5 cup white wine vinegar

1/2 Tbs pepper, ground or 1 TBS whole

a pinch of vinegar

2 c moscato.

1 cup honey

1/4 c lombard mustard

1 cup currants

2 tsp cinnamon (canela)

 

If you like anise, use a teaspoon each. I didn’t because I don’t like it.

Assemble your vegetables, not the pears. Poach them til they are bendy.

Remove them to a colander to cool, use the same water and poach the pears.

Add to the colander.

When fully cooled, add salt.

Once the salt is fully mixed in, add the vinegar, pepper, and saffron.

Then, finally, the next day, add the rest of the ingredients.

Allow it to sit for a week, and taste. If you like it, you can can it now,

or adjust seasonings and flavors first.

If you are low in the canning jars, add more vinegar to top up rather than

wine, in order to boost acidity slightly.

This is 6 canning jars worth. Two didn’t pop their lids, so I am storing them in the fridge and will use them first.

Compost (11)

http://www.medievalcookery.com/search/display.html?forme:99:PSTRNK

Quelquechoses (10)

I think it counts as health food. It also falls under leftover buster.

I have been making quelquechoses this way for probably almost 10 years. It gets a lot of compliments, even when it doesn’t flip neatly.

A couple of things; the recipe after this in the book says you edit the ingredients and still be within the parameters; other meats, other vegetables.

I don’t add meat, because I don’t want to.

Quelquechose makes for a dense, rich breakfast or late supper.

 

To make a quelquechose, which is a mixture of many things together, take eggs and break them, and do away with one half of the whites, and after they are beaten put to them a good quantity of sweet cream, currants, cinnamon, cloves, mace, salt, and a little ginger, spinach, endive, and marigold flowers grossly chopped,, and beat them all very well together; then take pig’s pettitoes sliced, and grossly chopped, and mix them with the eggs, and with your hand stir them exceeding well together, then put sweet butter in your frying pan, and being melted, put in all the rest, and fry it brown without burning, ever and anon turning it til it be fried enough; then dish it up upon a flat plate, and cover it with sugar, and so serve it forth. Only herein is to be observed that your pettitoes must be very well boiled before you put them into the fricassee.

 

4 whole eggs

4 yolks

1/3 c heavy cream

1/4 c currants

1 lbs spinach (or kale, or cabbage, or chard) washed and torn, if needed

1-3 endives, depending on size, chopped

1/2 tsp cinnamon

8 cloves

4 or so blades of mace

a few chunks of ginger

bowls of separate ingredients

If you have pigs feet or other leftover meat cooked to the point of falling apart, reduce the spinach by half, or add another egg and yolk per 1/4 lbs.

 

Crush and combine the spices.

Pour a couple of tablespoons of the cream into the spices and blend them, then put the spices into the cream.
Add the currants to the cream as well, particularly if they are dry.

Fold the cream into the eggs.

Heat a 10-12″ pan, add a decent quantity of unsalted butter, about 2 TBS.

While the butter melts, fold the vegetables into the eggs

Pour the mixture into the pan. I have put a lid on top to help it set up more quickly, as flipping the omelet can be problematic.

omelet that broke while flipping

I used a nonstick pan, but it stuck. I ate it anyway, because it tastes very good.

I don’t add sugar for the dinner version, but I do for the party version.

 

 

Espinacs; Spinach

Si vols fer espinacs sens agua, pren los espinacs e deneja’ls be, e puis llava’ls e fe’n dos o tres trossos. E hages una olla, e mit-hi una llossada d’oli, o’ segons que seran aquells a qui n’huaras a dar. E puis prem-los be e mit-los en l’olla, e mit-hui un poc de sal en guisa que no n’hi haja massa , entro que sien fusos; e estrijolats-los.

If you want to make spinach without water, take the spinach (leaves) and clean them well, and then wash them and make two or three pieces of them. Take a pot, and put in a large spoon of oil, or according to the number of those you will serve it to. Then squeeze them well and put them in the pot, and put in a little salt, but in a way so it is not too much, until they have melted, and cut them up.

(part of an ongoing series in which I share recipes presented at The Lay of El Cid hosted by Barony Bhakail)

Simple fried spinach. This recipe reminds us that not everything served in finer homes was elaborate or fanciful.
1 lb fresh spinach or chard
3 TBS olive oil
1 tsp salt

Rinse spinach, drain or spin well.
Tear larger leaves into small pieces.
Heat pot, place oil in pot.
Add the spinach and salt, be certain to stir to keep the bottom from burning.
Santanach, Joan, trans. Robin Vozelgang. The Book of Sent Sovi Medieval Recipes from Catalonia. First Edition. Barcelona, Spain: Barcino-Tamesis, 2008. 178-179. Print.

loaf of meat wrapped in cheesecloth, cut in half to show the filling, on a plate for service

http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/Du_fait_de_Cuisine.html

Recipe 64

 

I read a recent chefs’ text book a few years ago that made me pretty unhappy. It was that old saw about “ate bad meat, used lots of spices.” Lemme tell ya, I have a lot more respect for Medieval cooks than I do for the author of that well regarded book.

It’s hard not to go on a tirade, but if you are unfamiliar with historical cooking, let me assure you that people had the same gastric systems we do, and things that would make us sick would have made them sick. No amount of spices could fix it. Frankly, no one was going to throw good, expensive spices on bad food.

That out of the way, we get to the Green Meat.

This is a form of meatloaf, which is intended to be rolled in caul fat, like a crepinette. It’s to be wrapped in the layer of fat, then spitted and grilled, while being painted with parsley juice to turn it green.

I tried for some time to find the caul fat, and wasn’t able to get it locally. I have a line on it now, but the shoulder of mutton wouldn’t wait a few weeks.

The original recipe is quite long. It’s a set of instructions for making a relatively small amount of meat into a large, festive dish for a crowd.

First, we refresh the meat, taking it from the salt it is preserved in and rehydrating it.

After poaching it, the meat is carefully removed from the bones, taking great care to avoid damaging the bone structure.

It’s minced, blended with the other ingredients, and reformed into a shoulder-shaped loaf on the same bones, then wrapped carefully with the caul fat and roasted.

While it is roasting, it’s to be endored, painted, with the juice of parsley, a popular food coloring.

Having no caul fat, I chose to wrap the meat in cheesecloth, though a terrine also crossed my mind. It was not optimal, but it did work, and we are excited to do it again once we have caul fat in stock.

The resulting dish is a rather elaborate meatloaf, which extends the dish, assures that the meat is of the same quality throughout the dish, and be humorally appropriate for the largest portion of diners.

In fact, at the end of the instructions, there are a few suggested dishes named for in case any diners might have an infirmity, to allow them to have better balanced humors in order to enjoy the shoulder of mutton as well.

The directions are very long. The results are Green Meat.

 

Shoulder and or leg of mutton, rinsed. If salted, then soaked for a time.

Simmer in salt water, then cooled.

Remove the meat completely from the bone, but do not separate the bones.

Mince brie (or Crampone) cheese, add parsley, marjoram, hyssop, and sage.

The spices are ginger, grains of paradise, and some whole cloves to embellish with.

Eggs, saffron, and caul fat, figure it would take four to do a full sized leg of mutton.

Small skewers or toothpicks to pin the cauls on.

Parsley, eggs, and flour for the coloring layer

And an admonition not to overcook the batter in such a way as to lose the green coloration.

I had no choice but to diverge from the recipe in a few undesirable ways.

Our mutton shoulder was poorly cut, so I decided not to build back onto it. The bone would have lent a lot of flavor and helped keep the meat moist, as well as giving the appearance of the original shape.

I used cheesecloth, rather than caul, in order to be able to do the dish at all. Because of this, I used parsley juice alone, rather than egg/wheat batter as a gilding. These choices strongly affect the texture of the dish.

I could not cook over an open fire on a spit, because the grill is under several layers of snow. The cheesecloth would have caught fire anyhow.

What I did was not optimal. Let’s call this a test run worth discussing, not a final.

I am posting it because it was so good, and so easily adapted to feast or picnic use, that it would be rude to keep it to myself for a moment longer.

We had a whole shoulder of mutton, but a couple of shanks would do quite well here for a more modest service, intended for a smaller number of people.

Chiquart Mutton (2) Chiquart Mutton (4) Chiquart Mutton (5) Chiquart Mutton (8) Chiquart Mutton (10) Chiquart Mutton (13)

*if using caul, look for notes after the recipe

1,5 LBS mutton, simmered in water or simple broth

4 oz brie cheese, chilled and minced.

2 raw eggs

2 oz parsley, picked and minced

1/2 tsp dried marjoram

1 tsp sage

1/2 tsp hyssop

3/4 tsp dried ginger

3/4 tsp grains of paradise

1 1/4 tsp salt

12-20 whole cloves

saffron

These instructions are for the simplified iteration using cheesecloth.

Mince the cooked mutton. I used knives, but a processor will do an admirable job.

Beat the eggs, add the saffron to them. Set aside for the moment.

Add the herbs and spices, but not the cloves. Fold together with the cheese. Blend in the eggs to make a homogeneous loaf, not too wet but well stuck together.

Prepare the cheesecloth by dipping it in the broth you  cooked the meat in.

Lay the meat on the cheesecloth, fold it into a tidy parcel.

Mince the rest of the parsley, put it in the blender if you have one. Use a tad of water to help it along. (I don’t have a blender. I used a mortar and pestle. Don’t do that.)

When the parsley is pretty liquid, paint it onto the cheesecloth. Wait a moment for it to saturate, and paint on the rest.

Place the cloves on the surface, piercing the fabric, and roast the loaf on a pan with sides at 350 for about an hour.

*If you are using caul, rinse the caul, stretch it out, and paint it with an egg or two, to help seal it and help it stick to the meat.

Make parsley juice as above.

Blend  two eggs with a quarter cup of flour, and fold in the parsley juice.

Fold the loaf into it, and pin it shut. Paint it with the flour, egg and parsley mixture,

pierce it with the cloves, and roast as above.

To do it properly, you will have closer to 6 pounds of meat, reformed on the bone, which will roast at 200* for 5 hours. The recipe multiplies up pretty well, but you will need more eggs, and several toothpicks to pin on the caul.

Green meat was really tasty. We were disappointed by how much cheese we lost to the cheesecloth, though not surprised.

 

 

Top; canned. Left, dried. Bottom right, dried and soaked.

73 Take chiches  wrye hem in askes al nyght other al a day, other lay hem in hoot aymers. At morowe waische hem clene in water, and do hem ouere the fire with clene water, Seeth them up  and do therto oyle, garlek hole safroun, poudour fort and salt, seeth it & messe it forth.

 

Take chickpeas and set them in ashes and embers all night or all day.

Wash them clean in water, seethe them up,

add whole garlic, oil, powder fort, and salt.

Simmer together and serve.

 

I had a few options for this, though not the one I was most interested in; I do not have fresh chickpeas.

I first split a bag of dried chickpeas, and soaked half overnight.

Then I roasted the soaked peas, the still dry from the bag ones, and a tray of canned peas.

I treated the three iterations the same, as I wanted to see what different results I got.

The ones which had been soaked then roasted wound up tasting a lot like soggy, cooked corn nuts.

Those which had not been presoaked were reminiscent of uncooked potatoes in texture, with a bit of the nutty notes from the soaked and roasted iteration.

The canned peas were just about halfway between the two.

TL; Canned. TR: Dried and soaked. Bottom, Dried, not soaked.

TL; Canned. TR: Dried and soaked. Bottom, Dried, not soaked.

If I can get fresh chickpeas, I might revisit this dish.

I used powdre fort which was a very kind gift from a friend. It was pleasant.

spices measured for the dish.

Working with what I did for the dried, unsoaked peas, here’s what we did;

 

1 bag chickpeas, picked over.

1/4 c olive oil

1 TBS garlic, whole or minced

1 tsp powdre fort

1 tsp salt

1 pinch saffron, to taste

Roast peas for a few hours at 250*. They won’t change color.

Simmer them in water for an hour. Add salt.

Continue simmering, add spices and saffron.

Keep an eye on the water level.

When you taste and find them fully cooked, add the olive oil

and raise the temperature on the pot slightly.

Cook off excess liquid. Stir til incorporated.

The flavor is quite nice. The texture is a bit potato-like.

 

finished dish in a terra cotta vessel

Stewet beef to potage. Take faire ribbes of beefs, or elles take other gode beef, and smyte hit on peces, and wash hit clene and do hit in a pot, and put therto a lytel watur, and a gode dele wyne; and take onyons ynogh, and mynce hom, and do therto, and gode herbes, cut hom smal and put therto; and take bred stepet in brothe, and draw hit thurgh a streynour, and do hit therto, and cover hit wel, and let hit wel sethe; and do therto pouder of cloves and maces, and colour hit with saunders ; and in the scttynge down do therto a lytel vynegur medelet wyth pouder of canel, and serve hit forthe, and do therto raisynges of corance.

Take fair ribs of beef, or else take other good beef, and smite it in pieces.
Wash it clean and put it in a pot.
Put in a little water, a good deal wine, and onions enough, and mince them,
and good herbs, cut small.

IMG_5169
And take bread steeped in broth, and draw it through a stainer, and add it, and cover it well and let it seethe.

pressing soaked bread cubed through a strainer to create a thickener
Add powder of cloves and maces, color it with sanders.
When serving, add a little vinegar blended with canela cinnamon and some currants.

2 lbs beef
1/2 c water
1/2 bottle wine
2 c onions, chopped
1 TBS marjoram (winter supply of herbs is limited, use what you have)
2 C coarse bread cubes, dried
1 C broth (I used chicken)
1/4 tsp whole cloves, crushed well
1/4 tsp blade mace, crushed well
1 tsp salt (to taste)

2 TBS red wine vinegar
1/4 tsp canela cinnamon, blended together
1 tsp currants per bowl

Rinse the beef, cube it if it is not already cubes, and place it in the pot.
Add the water, apply heat.
As it begins to simmer, add the wine, onions, and marjoram.
Put the lid on.

Place the bread cubes in the broth, allow them to soak it up.

After about an hour of gentle simmering, remove the lid.
Put the bread cubes into a strainer, put the strainer in the pot, and push the
bread through.
Add the spices and salt.
Replace the lid, allow the dish to continue to simmer on low until tender.
Be careful that the thickened sauce does not stick and burn.
Depending on the cut of beef, this could be brief or it could be a while.

At service, fold the vinegar and cinnamon through the dish, then dress each serving with the currants.

Being that the pot is to have a snug lid, the wine broth will not boil off. This means that in order to thicken, a rather larger quantity of bread was required to thicken
than might seem usual. Then again, the bread I had was pretty airy.
You can use less liquid than I did.
I used a barolo, because it is what we had.

We loved this dish.. until we added the vinegar. The fundamental issue is that we used an excellent wine, but the vinegar we used was not made from the same wine. There was a flavor clash. It is likely that most pantries of the time would often have wine and vinegar from the same source materials.

It calls for Sanders. I don’t use sanders.

There was another issue, which is the ropy nature of cinnamon and vinegar blended. I am not terribly fond of that texture.

http://www.medievalcookery.com/search/display.html?ancie:39:BF

9 dumplings, about an inch in all directions, on a plate.

 

To mak hattes in flesche tyme:

To mak hattes in flesshe tyme mak a paiste of pured
flour, knodene with yolks of eggs and mak a stuf of
vele or pork sodene tender and ground with yolks of
eggs putther to mary diced and dates mynced smalle
and raissins of corrans with sugur saffron and salt and
pouder mellid to gedur in paiste and wound foilles of
the brod of a saucere as thyn as ye may dryf them and
dryf them that the bredes may cuver to the middes of
the foile then turn them to gedur that the bredes of
the inor sid met all about and lesse the bred and turn
upward without in the manner of an hatte and close
welle the eggs that they hold full ther in and luk the
stuf haue a good batter made with yolks of eggs and
flour of whet the open sid that is downward luk ther
in that the stuf be clossed and so set it in hot grece up
right and when the battur is fried lay them doun and
serve them.

To make hats in flesh time, make a paste of pure
flour, kneaded with yolks of eggs and make a stuffing
of veal or pork poached tender and ground with yolks of
eggs. Put thereto marrow diced and dates minced small,
and currants and sugar, saffron, and salt, and
powder melded together in paste and wound foils of
the breadth of a saucer and thin as you may draw them and
draw them that the breads may cover the mids of
the goil, then turn them together that the breads of
the inner side meet all about and lease the bread and turn
upward without in the manner of a hat, and close
well the eggs that they hold therein, and look therein
that the stuff be closed and so set it in hot grease up
right and when the batter is fried lay them down and
serve them.

To make hats in flesh time, make egg pasta.

Make a stuffing of veal or pork seethed tender,
with egg yolks, diced marrow, minced dates,
currants, sugar, saffron, salt and “powder” melded together.

all of the ingredients laid out, most of them measured in individual containers.

all in place

Put the stuffing in the dough following rather elaborate instructions which
lead to a dumpling shaped like a hat.

Hattes (14)Hattes (15)Hattes (16) Hattes (17)

 

Make a batter of yolks and flour. Dip the tops of the dumplings in the batter to
be certain the dumplings are all sealed.

Hattes (18)

Fry them til they are pretty and serve them.
I did not poach my meat, as it was preground.
I did not roast my marrow bones. If they smell in any way of ammonia, do not use them.
Whether the yolks are to be preboiled or not for this dish is a question. As most dishes from the basic cuisine do call for hard cooked yolks, I made the assumption. My preferred proportion is 1 yolk per ¼ lb of meat to be used. I find that more than that can be mealy, while less is not up to the task of keeping a dish moist while helping flavors interact.
We had quite a discussion on the nature of Powder. The book this is from has all kinds of powders, with it sometimes referring explicitly to salt, or saffron, or ginger, but sometimes with no signifiers.
I opted for pepper, as it figures regularly in the book as a companion to salt.

If you choose to freeze a part of the recipe, do so before battering, and reduce the batter quantity by the portion appropriate. Place the sealed dumplings on a sheet and freeze them solid, the move them to a bag for storage. They can be fried directly from frozen.

I placed the number that fit in my fryer at a time, which happens to be 8.

The batter destroyed my frying oil, It could not be saved for other dishes. We did not mind.

The Recipe;

2 packs of won ton wrappers (about 50 in the pack, contained egg and nothing weird)
1.5 lbs pork, veal, or as a modern sub, turkey, poached then ground, or simply ground.
6 hard boiled egg yolks, mashed well.
3 oz bone marrow, minced
¼ c currants
¼ c dates, minced
1 tsp sugar
1.5 tsp salt
.5 tsp pepper
1 pinch saffron (you can skip it. We like it. We tasted it.)

For the batter;

For the batter, I used raw yolks. The word is spelled the same way, which was no clue, but I have seen many recipes for a modern whipped egg yolk batter which is quite pleasant, and impossible with cooked yolks.

6 raw yolks, whipped til they turn creamy and pale
add ½ c water, slowly, while continuing to whip.
Add ½ c cake flour or similar, slowly and gently. It will hold well for about a half hour.
Reserve the whites to glue the dumplings shut.

Frying oil, at least an inch deep, and all of the equipment needed for safe frying

For the dumplings;
Blend the entire list of ingredients til it is evenly distributed. Fry a tidbit and taste for seasonings, I am known for a very light hand with salt.

Place a half of an ounce (I used a disher) of meat in the center of each wrapper. Glue the four corners together, making a little pyramid. Seal the sides.
When they are all done,
dip the pointy tops in the batter.

Fry til they are a pale golden color. Drain on a towel, and serve.

 

In discussion, we agreed that a cameline would have been an excellent side, of course depending on the cameline.
This led to a lively debate on the nature of Poudre Lombard, at which point we retired.
To mak sauce camelyn for quaylle

To mak sauce camelyne for quaile, tak whyt bred
and drawe it in the sauce in the manner of guinger
sauce with venyger put ther to pouder of guinger
canelle and pouder-lombard a goodelle and ye may
draw alitille mustard ther with and sesson it up with
mustard that it be douce salt it and colour it with
saffron and serue it.

http://www.medievalcookery.com/notes/napier.txt

IMG_5143

Beef is stunningly expensive, so it needs to go a long way when we get it. It is winter right now, a time when we long for slow braises which fill the air with the aromas of warmth and comfort.

There are only two of us, though, and while it is possible to make Stew For Two, it’s not so much fun. I also find it frustrating to have a mass quantity of something with a very strong flavor profile, as meals can get repetitive after a while.

This dish is quite simple. It’s easy to ignore for hours, it’s easy to use in many different ways.

It’s very mild, so it will match quite nicely with many options of sides, and the beef flavor will shine.

The wine you choose will be important here, as the goal is a brightness from the verjus. A new wine is appropriate, something with a bit of acid such as a “two buck” or taverna wine.

 

beef in a cryopac, and the ingredients for the dish measured and arrayed in dishes.

A rather large bounty of beef

25. Verjuice soup of chicken or whatever meat you wish.

BROUET DE VERJUS DE POULLAILLE OU DE TEL GRAIN COMME
VOUS VOULDREZ. Cuisiez en vin, en eaue et en verjuz tellement
que le goust du verjus passe tout l’autre, puis broyez
gingenbre et des moyeulx d’oeufz tous cruz grant foison,
et passez tout parmy l’estamine ensemble, et mettez boullir;
puis gectez sur vostre grain, quant il sera friolé, et mettez
du lart, au cuire, pour luy donner goust.

 

Cook in wine, water, and enough verjus that it tastes mostly of verjus. Add some pork fat to give flavor.

Crush ginger and bread, and moisten with egg yolk, and strain this through a cheesecloth.

Boil it and throw it onto your meat, when it is browned.

4 LBS of beef (or a whole lot less, it’s OK)

2 cups wine

1 cup water

1 cup verjus

4 oz pork fat, prosciutto rind, or other barding,

1 teaspoon dried ginger powder

1/2 cup breadcrumbs

2 raw egg yolks

Wash the beef and place it in a vessel of the size that seems best; close but with room for wine and some simmering space. Be sure the lid fits well.

beef tenderloin in a pot, curled up to fit.

Layer the fat over the meat, if you wish to use it.This fat is partly to protect the meat, partly to allow the richness to melt in. Higher collagen cuts will rely less on this, though they would still benefit. A layer of cheesecloth with olive oil would work for a very lean cut in which you prefer not to add pork.

Add the liquids and permit to simmer until the meat is fully cooked. I choose to simmer it til the meat falls apart, much like for Ropa Viejo

about to disintegrate, the meat has shrunk.

Remove the meat, allow the broth to cool slightly,

Blend the ginger with the breadcrumbs, and fold some broth into the bowl of breadcrumbs,

Allow them to soak up the broth for a time, then add them to the pot.

Separate your eggs, and either fold them cautiously into the pot of cooled broth, or temper the broth into the eggs, then

add them to the pot.

Simmer the broth with the egg yolks and bread crumbs til thick.

Meanwhile, in a pan, sautee your meat and allow it to brown. The instructions are pretty clear that the meat and broth should be separated before the broth is thickened.

Another choice is to allow the meat to settle in the pot and brown within the broth, but I find this lends a somewhat burnt taste. I believe this might have been a not-unknown  method, as there are several notes explaining how to remove the burnt taste from a brewet as required.

Serve the meat well sauteed, with the thick, seasoned sauce.

 

Please note; There are many translations of this dish which are written differently. There are other varietions of instruction in related books, some calling for more specific seasonings.

I disagree firmly with the instruction placed in one translation of this recipe to brown the meat before braising, as the entire mindset of Medieval cookery is counter to that method, for humoral reasons.

I will go more into depth on humours some other time.

 

Scully, T. (1995). The art of cookery in the Middle Ages (p. 223). Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK: Boydell Press.

http://www.staff.uni-giessen.de/gloning/tx/vi-vat.htm

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/prescotj/data/viandier/viandier415.html#viandier18